A Time of Transition and Reflection

I walked into Santiago on Saturday. I spent Sunday walking around and lunching with friends. And today I am leaving, catching a train to Madrid and a tomorrow a plane home. It's like Sunday was the turning point, the transition. Come. Stop. Go. 

While in Santiago I had a room of my own and, except for Sunday lunch, spent my time alone. Which is perfect. It was a pause. It was a quiet time, with some reflection, but mostly just coming to a standstill. 

I always find myself sad leaving Spain, wondering if I'll ever see it again. I'm always confused at the end of a Camino. I always wonder if there was a lesson. There always has been. And I always discover what it is, or they are after I am home for a time. I've learned to be ok with that. 

I've actually learned to appreciate letting it all be suspended like tea flakes on water, drifting downward slowly until they hit bottom and the color of the water changes. Then I can see, I can read the tea leaves. 

I was sick for ten of the twelve weeks I was in Spain. The only time I was well was the first two weeks I spent volunteering in the Pilgrim's Office in Santiago. I got sick the second day I was walking the Portuguese. Since the sickness involved my digestive system the amount of nutrition I received was greatly reduced. I've lost a lot of weight and my energy levels slowly lowered.  I don't yet know how or why this happened, and I don't know whether it is part of the lesson or whether I've learned something from it. I've been to Spain for for months at a time, probably ten times and have never suffered any sickness. 

I also developed foot pain. I don't know if it was fallen arches or plantar fasciitis. Every morning and evening I did stretches and applied Voltarén. If I could get my hands on an ice pack or bag of frozen peas, I used that in the evening. And it never got really painful. 

From the beginning of this trip I never intended to walk into Santiago from Sarría, and yet I did. I was never certain I was even going to Santiago. There were several times when I considered going to Madrid from where I was, Ponferrado for one, and taking an early flight home. And yet I kept walking toward Santiago. It wasn't with a sense of determination, which is so like me. It was with the sense of, if I feel like walking in the morning, I will. And each morning, I felt like walking. For those who know me well, you know that not having a plan, not being determined, not forging onward, is way out of character. 

This whole trip was as if Amazing Grace (God) was leading me by the nose and saying, "Let go." Or as my friends like to say, "Let go and let God."

Arrival in Santiago On My Birthday

 Well, my last day on the Camino started like any other day on the Camino, with lights flashing, bags rustling, and voices a bit above a whisper. I found I had no need to set an alarm. Many people were up and excited to get to the cathedral for the noon Pilgrims mass. I liked watching their excitement. 

I did my usual stretching, dressing, and eating. I was out the door about 7:45 am, when it was light enough for me to see. When we went through a couple of areas with tall trees, I was glad someone behind me had a headlamp. 

Somehow today I was just part of the river of Pilgrims flowing towards Santiago. The sunrise was different, but stunning. 

The river just rolled along

Some of the river took time out to have lunch in a field. 

And there were some strange looking trees:

I also saw ovejas with long tails. I didn't get a picture of them because they were too far away. I've never seen an oveja with a tail, they are usually bobbed. 

On the way through Santiago I was walking along and there was a couple of families talking on the sidewalk, maybe about where to eat. In the grouping were two little girls about five years of age. In passing the families, I passed the girls too. I was going at a pretty good clip and rhythm. After I passed, one of the girls comes running by me. I thought maybe she thought this was a game where we passed each other. But she passes by me and then comes to a complete stand still about two feet in front of me. I think she thought we were going to play leap frog. But a seventy year old woman, who has just walked twelve miles up some steep inclines with a heavy pack, is not jumping, not even if she wanted to jump. I thought I was going to go ass over tea kettle over this kid, injurying her and I in the process. Splat!! I put on the brakes so hard I went up on my toes. I stopped about one inch from running into and over her. Out of my mouth came, "Sheeeesh!" She just sort of looked at me and then went back to her parents. I tried to collect myself from the near disaster. I still had visions of me tangled in my poles lying on top of the kid on the sidewalk. 

After that, everything seemed smooth as silk. 

And then I got to Santiago and followed the shells to the Cathedral. 

Except the Praza in front of the Cathedral  was a zoo. Half the Praza was blocked off and there was a bunch of basketball hoops, with young people shooting basket in some sort of competition. And a lot of people were standing around watching. This was not a good day to end your Camino with a picture of you in front of the Cathedral. Unless you wanted a photo that was like, Where's Waldo? lol

I scooted through and went to the post office to pick up the box of things I had sent from Burgos. I got disoriented and couldn't find the post office. So I asked a woman who looked like a local where it was. She started to explain, and then just said come with me. She lead me right to the font door. Again, the kindness of strangers. 

I went in the post office and the little machine that usually gives you a number corresponding to what you are there to do; mail something, pick something up; was broke. So there was one long line for everyone. It wasn't too bad. I picked upmy box, unpacked it and put everything in my backpack. I found my hostel and checked in. I'm on the fourth floor. lol. I just can't stop going up and down. 

I went out for a walk and at on point a group of people dressed in Galician costumes with bagpipe players came wandering by. 

Now I'm tucked in bed and there is some sort of music, and I use that term very loosely, going on nearby. It sounds like people are being tortured at high decibels. There's like no tune or melody just long drawn out vocal and instrumental noises. It must be something new, because I've never heard anything like it. But people are clapping when they finish a session of moaning, so someone must know what it is and like it. I actually think it will be easier to sleep through than actual music. 

What Was I Thinking?

For months before I started my trip to Spain, I said I would bus from Sarría to Santiago. I knew from past experience that there are a large number of people who only walk this section and that makes it more crowded than the rest of the Camino. But I was walking, and walking, and walking, and suddenly I was in Sarría. I was going to get a train to Santiago. I needed to see a doctor. So I saw a doctor in Sarría. Then I thought I would walk about 5 km to the first Albergue after Sarría. That wasn't too bad, but since I didn't leave Sarría until noon, it wasn't crowded. 

So I got up the next day and, after tripping and falling down, started walking again. I really didn't intend to do this, but I didn't seem to be able to stop. So I walked past Portomarín to Gonzar, a small place. It wasn't too bad that day. The next day I walked past Palas de Rei, which was a zoo, to Casanova. By going beyond the big stopping places, I guess I was ahead of the crowds. 

Then yesterday I walked from Casanova to Ribadixo, because I didn't want to go past Ribadixo to Azura, which is like a big city stretched along on road. I also didn't think I had enough left in the tank to go beyond Azura to the next Albergue. So I stayed in Ribadixo at an Albergue I like. It is comfy, but they have added a lot to it since 2013. 

Sunrise is past 8 am now, though I can usually see the trail to walk by 7:45 am. I was the last one to leave the Albergue. So it was pretty peaceful walking to Azura. I figured all those who stayed in Azura would be ahead of me, so I would have some quiet time. 

When I came into Azura I met up with a huge bus unloading day walkers. There must have been fifty of them, maybe more. And I'm sure there must have been one or more other buses. The Camino looked like a line for a ride at Disneyland. Lots more people than I encountered in 2013. The saving grace is that these folks don't sleep where the rest of us do. That would take up a lot of beds. The bus picks them up at the end of the day and takes them to a hotel where there's room for all of them. Then the Bu brings them back to the Camino the next day. 

It was then I thought, "what was I thinking? Or was I thinking at all? " I had a choice. It was sink or swim. I just kept saying to myself, "Go with the flow, be the river." I'd like to tell you I totally transcended, but I cannot tell a lie. It was ok. I was surrounded by beauty. I didn't take many pictures, because one or two pictures of people's butts walking down a trail are enough. 

And here are two walking hand in hand. I am always amazed when I see people do this. I don't think it would be comfortable, unless you were strolling, which  they were, I guess. I'm not a very good stroller. 

Here are some nature shots sans people. There was heavy ground fog this morning. It was colder tha a witches elbow. Like 42 F degrees! I wore my micro fleece jacket and my core was warm. My legs were a little cold because, as you may recall, the zipper on the legs for my pants, got mangled in a washing machine a while back. 

The sunrise was seen reflected off the clouds. 

There were horses

And a doggie

Cows going out for a walk:

And pilgrims at the bar

I got to O Pedrouzo and was concerned about getting a bed. There was a long line at the municipal Albergue. I stayed there once. It was a little crowded, but ok. But strangely enough I got to the Albergue I stayed in last time with the atrium in the middle of the dormitory, I was the second one there. I had my choice of beds!  So I chose one next to the atrium. Isn't it nice? This Albergue is on my top ten list and it doesn't take reservations. The guy is really nice and there is soothing music piped through the Albergue. 

Mr Burple said people were taking photos of him today. How would I know, he's behind me. But why wouldn't they? He is so cute. I did hear people talking about him as I passed. 

I took my shower, got dressed, put my clothes in the washer, and went to the store. When I got back I went up to the Terrace, where there is a semi outdoor kitchen and a sitting area. I'm sitting on a long bench at the table eating my lunch when an Asian teen sits down about three feet from me, even though I am at one end of the otherwise empty bench. She had a plate of boysenberries. Then another Asian teen sits between the first and me. At this point I'm feeling a little crowded. Then the one next to me starts wiggling and flopping her arms around. Just as I'm preparing to look for a tongue depressor to keep her from biting her tongue, she stops. I look at her and ask, "Are you through?" She asks, "Through what?"

I mimic her flopping around. She says, "There was a . . . fly." I'm thinking, "This is Spain. How long have you been here? Is that the first fly that has landed on you? But I thought I would start laughing if I asked any one of those questions. Just writing this has made me giggle. 

And now an addition to that story. I went up to eat my dinner, a banana and yogurt, and the two girls were there eating blackberries and some cooked dish. I smiled at them. The girl with the fly, Rainie, asked me if I wanted some blackberries, and we started a conversation. The two girls are from China. The first girl, Sue, is from northern China. Rainie is from Guangzhou. She was surprised when I told I'd been there during my bicycle tour of China. She was shocked that I was there during the SARS epidemic. Apparently it started in Hong Kong, which is close to Guangzhou. I was also in Hong Kong. She lived in the states for 17 years. This past year she had been in Valencia, Spain studying Spanish. She's quite accomplished. Her English is perfect. She goes back to China in 10 days. It was an interesting conversation. The other girl didn't say anything. I think she was shy. 

And tomorrow, on my seventieth birthday, I will walk into Santiago. 

A Change In Latitude, A Change In Attitude

Casanova to Ribadixo

Last night everyone in my room discussed getting up at 6:30 am. That sounded good to me. Unfortunately we did not doscuss it with the two guys in the room across the hall who got up at 4:30 or 5 am. They were not quiet and the light was on in their room, the door to our room was open, my bed faced the door, so every time they opened or closed the door I got bright light in my eyes. Oh well, I was going to get up at some time any way. ; )

I got up and quietly brought all my stuff downstairs. The two guys were still there. I restrained myself. How unusual! Like all Xunta albergues in Galicia, there is a kitchen, but usually a sink, a stove, and a table. This one had a refrigerator and a few plates and cups. Of course there is no pan to heat water in, so I made tea with hot water from the sink. It was ok. I don't really like tea anyway, except the loose leaf tea from specialty shops and ginger tea. I ate my banana and yogurt, got dressed, and did my stretches. It still wasn't light, so I followed the end of the Dodger game. I said good bye to the girls and wished them "Buen Camino."

I was the last one out about 7:45 am. But I could see the path. I don't think It raíned last night, but this morning the air was cold with dampness. I thought I was going to need my micro fleece jacket, but I warmed up as I walked. I was in the mountains and I didn't really have a good shot of the sunrise. But today was animal day. 

First their was a cute little kitty:

Then there was a cute little doggie:

Then there were horses:

Then cows in the field:

And this poor dear looked like she needed to be milked very soon. She looked so uncomfortable. 

And then of course there were ovejas. These were sleeping in the shade. 

And this one preferred eating. To each his own when it comes to ovejas. 

And then there was the donkey. He and his friend were camped by the river. They are doing the Camino and earning money by giving a "Donkey Stamp" for a donativo. The donkey didn't look like he cared whether or not he got to Santiago. He just wanted a carrot so I fed him one. 

Sometime during the day I realized I was being snarky in my head about the herds of day packers full of energy, the Spanish guy that lectured the two people he was walking with about something like the historical significance of each tree, loudly and continuously; and the click clack of people's poles (of course mine don't make any noise at all,) about the guy on the bicycle with daypack containing a radio blasting music as he rode by, and on and on. Fortunately, I recognized that I needed an attitude adjustment. I thought, I am walking in beauty and being irritated. If this is my last Camino or my last day on earth is this how I want to spend it. 

I started just going with the flow, like a leaf floating through this river of people. After awhile, I suddenly spurted tears of gratitude for being able to be part of this river of people. What a difference a little change of perspective can bring. 

Here are a few photos from today. There was so much beauty I can't post them all. When I get home I'll make some albums on Facebook. 

Then there were a bunch of teens having lunch on the side of the road with their adult supervisor. 

And another donativo stand:

And for those of you who remember my adventures with water elements on the Via de la Plata in 2014. Here is a water element on this Camino before Ribadixo.

 

This one wasn't as difficult as the ones on the Via de la Plata. 

I got to the Albergue about 1:30 pm and am safely tucked in for the night. 

 

A Change In The Weather

I spent the night in Gonzar, which is about 8 km past Portomarin. I was headed towards Casanova, which is about 5 I'm past Palas del Rei. I'm trying to skip the bigger towns that I have already seen, and stay in small pueblos, in smaller albergues. 

I got up this morning, did my stretching, organized my pack, drank my tea and ate my banana. I checked outside and decided it was already too warm to wear a long sleeve shirt. The sunrise was spectacular. 

And here is a sunrise selfie

I saw a bunch of cows. This is cow country. There is vaca caca and flies everywhere. Eau de Vaca is the prevailing fragrance. I often wonder how people stand it. But probably if you grow up with it, fragrance would seem normal. 

And then I took an accidental shadow selfie while photographing this cross. 

And then there were ovejas. 

And a spider

Because I am in Galicia, today was up a hill, down a hill, repeat until you reach your destination. But, along the way the scenery is exquisite. When I get tired, I sometimes have to remind myself to stop and look around. Here's what I miss if I don't:

Suddenly around midmorning I realized I was getting cold. I noticed a fog had moved in on the area. I put on my long sleeve shirt and I could feel the dampness. There was a little wind too. At one point I could actually see the air move with the wind because it was so laden with water. That was amazing. Then around noon the skies cleared and it was warm again. 

I stopped in Palas de Rei to pick up stuff for my special diet. And on the way out of town I saw these old friends. 

I took pictures of these two before, but it was always too dark when I was leaving town to get a good picture. 

So I got to Casanova looking forward to what was described as a comfy friendly private Albergue with a community meal. I walked through Casanova, which took about two minutes. I couldn't see the Albergue anywhere. I looked on Gronze and finally figured out that the Albergue I wanted was back about 3 km in Ponte. I was standing in front of the municipal Albergue. There was no choice, because there was no way I was walking back over the same ground I had just walked. 

So I am in the Municipal Albergue in Casanova and it is just fine. I met three Spanish girls who live and work in London, because they can't get jobs in Spain. We chatted for quite a while about all sorts of things, like the Camino and how to survive it, the importance of family, health care, and the world economy. I can't think of a nicer way to pass the time. 

Oh I forgot to mention, I have finally mastered the paper sheets. That means I can get them on the mattress without swearing or tearing them. 

Now we have dark cloudy skies and it is supposed to rain any minute. I hope it stops before morning. 

Good night all.