Walking out of Boadiila twice, and catching up.

Ok,  so I did a test run, this one for a very good reason. I have tried to walk from Boadilla to Fromista twice, and gotten lost both times. The first time I just ended up on a highway and trudged a few extra kilometers on cement. The second time accounted for my great hitchhiking spiritual experience. And though that was great, I don't care to repeat it. So, today, while I still had my boots on, I took a stroll to figure out where I went wrong. I got it figured out. Now, all I have to do is remember it until tomorrow. But here is what I saw in my stroll. 

So it is time for catch up and people. Yesterday I walked from Hornillos to Castrojeríz. On the way I stopped in Hontanas for café con leche and a tortilla. All the tables were taken, so I asked a young woman, who was busy on her phone, if I could sit at the empty seat at her table. She nodded ok, and went back to her phone. I glanced at her and realized she looked like she was still dressed from a party the night before. She had on a silk one piece with lace across the breasts and almost invisible thin straps. We used to wear these things for sexy bedtime stories, but I can't remember what they are called. Maybe that is sad. lol Anyway, she had several piercings and full make up and her hair looked splendid, casually piled on her head. So, imagine my surprise when she got up and I noticed she had 3/4 hiking boots on. She proceeded to put on her pack. I ran into her later when I was in the Municipal Albergue in Castrojeríz. She was Italian. Remember when I was on the Portuguese and spent the night with the four Italian women. I mentioned how the Italians manage to look stylish with no effort. This gal was hiking the Camino, and except for the boots, looked like she stepped out of a fashion magazine. I was impressed. 

Last year Leea and I stayed in the Albergue Ultreira in Castrojeríz, which was a nice place and a lot of fun. It included a lesson in wine pressing, a visit to a bodega under the Albergue and a history lesson about the tunnel from the bodega to the castle. 

As you can see the castle was high up on the hill, which was a great defensive position. The town was essentially where it is now. So the tunnel allowed passage between the town and the castle. 

But this year, I decided to revisit the Municipal Albergue, where I stayed on my first Camino. It is nice place and it seems to bring pilgrims together with no effort at all. I think it's the size of the kitchen and eating area which helps. It's very small almost forcing pilgrims to interact. The sleeping area, on the other hand is very large  

I met a large burly Italian man with a big beard. He was on his way to Ermita San Nicolás to be a hospitalero for a week. His name was Dominic. He had noticed the "muñeca" on my necklace. Muñeca means doll in Spanish. This little metal muñeca is given out by the Spanish Confraternity to people who have served as hospitaleros. It is precious to me. 

Because it is precious and because sometimes I mix up my Spanish words, I created an embarrassing situation. I had dropped the muñeca while trying to put it back on the chain. It hit my foot and skidded across the floor. I looked all over, but couldn't find it. I figured it had skidded under one of the backpacks sitting on the floor. So I was trying to ask the hospitalero if someone found it and turns it in, would he tell me. But instead of using the verb encontrar meaning to find, I used the verb esconder meaning to hide. So essentially I was saying that I thought someone was hiding it. Whoops! Fortunately a Spanish woman who speaks both Spanish and English and realized my mistake, jumped in and explained for me. It was a little embarrassing. But that was how Dominic noticed me and knew I had been a hospitalera. And luckily I found the muñeca a few minutes later. 

The gal in the bunk above me was German and spoke English so we visited a bit. There was also a Japanese young man who I talked with over snacks at the table. I met a young Spanish woman, Ana, at breakfast who had walked the Camino 10 years ago when she was 18. She says she doesn't remember any of it, but is enjoying it this time. After Castrojeríz there is a large steep hill. She was freaked out about it. I told her it is steep, but not too long. I also said, if I can do it, you will have no trouble. She and the German woman thought I was very fit. It's funny, but I don't think of myself as fit. 

Anyway here is a picture of Ana after she climbed the hill

She was actually in the process of raising her hands in joy and triumph, but I hit the button too soon. Here is a picture of me, after the hill

On the way up the hill there is this memorial to a pilgrim who died, presumably climbing the hill. lol I think that might give pause to a few pilgrims. 

The Meseta is so beautiful it sometimes makes me want to cry. Here are just a few pictures from today

Some pilgrims say this Meseta is boring and suggest that people skip it. I do not understand how it is boring. 

So I was walking, getting closer to Boadilla, when I noticed this man and his grandson. We had been passing each other back and forth for the last couple of days. I noticed they were going very slow and the boy was limping. I gave them some information about Boadilla and the Albergue with a pool. The man thanked me and I moved on. Then I thought maybe I could carry the boy's pack to make it easier. I dropped my pack and went back and asked if I could carry the pack. The man said no that wasn't necessary. 

So when I got to the Albergue I asked if Eduardo could save two beds for them. He and his mom said, Of course." So, after I dropped my stuff off I went back to check on them. The man said they were going to return home. The boy had sprained his ankle and wasn't going to be able to walk. They came to the Albergue and Eduardo helped them get information about trains and called them a taxi to take them to catch a train. He is so nice. It was sad to see them leave. It brought back memories from last year. We didn't go home though. We went on to other fun adventures. 

As they were getting into the cab, I gave the boy one of my knotted things for his mochilla. His face lit up, he smiled and said, "gracias." It was the first time I'd seen him smile today. 

Here is the entrance to the Albergue "En El Camino" which always looks like an oasis to me

A Walk Through Time And Space and Spiritual Lessons

I have been cranky and irritable. My soul and serenity were battered. Then 3 Italians woke me up 3 times, twice from naps with loud voices and once from sleep at 4:30am with an alarm. 

So I spent the first part of my walk, from Hornillos to Castrojeríz, in a mental cement mixer over other people's behavior. Then someone, I think it was Stephanie, said something in a comment to me about the "I am the problem" mind set. For those of you unfamiliar with this idea, for me it means whenever I am having difficulty with another human being, I have some part in it. And I always have the choice to decide how I will react. 

Someone once told me that if someone steps on your toe, it is normal to be upset. But if I'm still upset about it 10 years later, while the person who stepped on my toe is sleeping peacefully, that is a resentment. They are deadly. They operate on the I'll show you, I'll hurt me paradigm. It has been one of my standard methods of operation in the past. You step on my toe and I'll cut off my toe. That will show you! Harumpf, lol. 

So as I am walking through this scenery

And trudging up this lovely path, 

I realize I've done it again. IHere I am doing something I love, doing something I came thousands of miles to do, churning over thoughts of wrongs done me. Am I contemplating Amazing Grace and all I've been given, that I definitely didn't deserve? Am I contemplating how wondrous nature is all around me? Am I soaking up the spiritual blessings?

NO, none of the above. I'm making my case about how I have been harmed. That is my part in this particular scenario. The problem is clearly me. These people are nowhere in sight. 

So I remember compassion. People I know who are comfortable in their own skin, are not mean, controlling, inconsiderate, or hurtful. So people who act that way must have some pain or discomfort. It is better for me, for my state of mind, to have compassion for their pain or discomfort than to judge their behavior. 

I truly believe that we are all on the same path, but we are not all in the same place on the path. The path is all good, no one is better or worse, we are all in this together. 

This did not come easily today, but it came. So now I am in 

Resting comfortably. I took a shower, washed my clothes and had something to eat. Tomorrow I'm going to my favorite Albergue. 

Leaving Burgos - Twice

It's really not odd, but I had no interest in exploring Burgos. It's not odd because I recognize the feeling from past Caminos. I am anxious to walk. I am in Camino mode. Perhaps it is more heightened now because I have been not walking for a while. I guess I have itchy feet or legs or mind or all three. I want to go. But I know I need to rest. I was exhausted when I arrived yesterday. That is not a good way to start. So I am resting today. And tomorrow I begin again. 

This feels like the time or space in between. I relaxed and slept while I was in Burgos. It was about rest, not sightseeing. Burgos was packed with summer visitors and that energy is kind of nice when you are not part of the crowd trying to get on the little train or in the Cathedral. It was nice to view it in a relaxed manner. 

So while I was doing my paseo on Tuesday evening it occurred to me that the Camino crosses the river before leaving Burgos, so why doesn't the Camino just follow the river out, like it follows it into the city. 

So on Wednesday I did a little Camino leaving Burgos by walking along the river. And I visited the gate where Martin Sheen said "hasta luego" to the gypsy. 

It's a much pretty walk than I remember from the marked way. Anyway, so I walked out of Burgos along the river this morning, finally crossing it and strolling along the Paseo de Universidad de Burgos. It's a very large university. 

Along this Paseo, I found my favorite pay toilet again. I still haven't tried it. 

And several of the sculptures I remember:

And this lovely old ruin that you don't see going the marked way. 

It was a nice walk this morning. It was amazingly cool until about noon. For a while I thought it was going to rain. 

I got to Rabe de las Calzaldas

And had a café con leche. Then I saw some exquisite Meseta sites:

Remember these guys:

And finally I arrived here:

Hornillos is not crowded. None of the albergues are full. In the one I am in there are two Germans and several Italians. 

I went down to the municipal and checked it out. It is only about half full. I met the guy who is working there. He is from Ireland. I'm hoping I'm on the back end of a wave, because it doesn't seem too crowded. 

It was nice to get the pack on in the morning and fall back into the routine of walk, get a bed, take a shower, do laundry, eat and take a nap. It's a full day. 

Tidal Waves And Other Unnatural Disasters

Well, Bea left yesterday. She bought me a melón, the kind you can only get in Spain, and some Chupa Chups as a going away present. I gave her one of my knotted designs.  The night before she left we had one last ovejas feeding session. She left by taxi, early the next morning. I had a tear in my eye as she got into the taxi. After she left, Elidio and I fell back into our routine. It was calm and comfortable. 

Then it happened, Heidi swept in on a rush of words and movement. She is the hospitalera who will be serving with two Australians, Margaret and Rowen. Heidi is Norwegian and speaks several languages, including Spanish and English. 

She is in constant motion both bodily and vocally. I was having a nap on my bed when she arrived. Elidio came in looking distressed and said,"Nancy, venga!" Half asleep, I walked into the kitchen and a conversation with Heidi, that went faster than the speed of light. At the same time two English speaking pilgrims arrived. I'm trying to wake up, greet the pilgrims and talk to Heidi, who is talking right over me. 

I got the pilgrims checked in and Heidi settled in. I started explaining how we had been doing things. Suggesting that she will certainly find a way that is comfortable for her, but I would just show her what Elidio and I had been doing. She had brought books to start a library, rags for cleaning, two bottle brushes for doing dishes because she works in public health and things need to be clean. We somehow got "Happy Hour" tea, coffee and snacks set up. She had brought a bunch of teas to make cold tea infusions, whatever that is, and pots of hot tea. Bea ordered an infusion at the cafe the other day. I think I was too embarrass by my ignorance to ask what it is. 

Heidi has more energy than anyone I've ever met. I felt like I had been run over by a train. And, I'm not exactly a shrinking violet. Though I think all the work I've done on becoming the softer gentler Nancy must have changed me. In my former life, this would have been an epic clash of titans. Instead I just tried to stay out of the way. 

She settled in with some knitting and talked to the pilgrims in Spanish, English, and German. She got a conversation going in three languages.  It really worked well to get everyone talking. I went back to bed. 

Every new hospitalero has their own style and way of doing things. It is part of the process to turn it over. I showed her around town today, and we went to Chino to get some things she wanted for the Albergue. I have yet to be able to complete a sentence. lol Those of you who knew me ten (10) years ago, probably find this hard to believe. God always has a plan, maybe this time it was for me to see some change in me. 

I miss Bea. I am sad about leaving, but simultaneously, ready to go. Margaret and Rowen showed up today. They are Australian and just delightful. They are trying to learn Spanish "on the fly." I think they will be great hospitaleros once they get their feet wet. They are tea drinkers also. So, they are enjoying Heidi's teas. 

Yesterday was crazy busy. We could have filled sixty beds if we had them. We filled up the other available beds in town and then helped pilgrims arrange taxis to go on to the next two towns, allowed about ten young people who were going sleep in the park to take showers, and did some laundry for a couple of the young people who had bed bugs. The Norte and Primitivo are crazy busy right now. It's been a zoo here this evening. 

As I left the Albergue this morning, I hugged everyone good bye and when I hugged Elidio I started crying. I cried all the way to the bus. I can't believe I was that emotional after just two weeks of being there. I also said good bye to the ovejas. 

Here are the pictures of the mountains I failed to get on my way to Oviedo two weeks ago. This morning, on my way back from Oviedo, I tried to take time out from gawking to take pictures.

I'm in Burgos now. Yesterday was so tense I didn't eat much. So I had a bag of Riquettos on the bus and a cheeseburger and fries for dinner. : ) This evening I got an ice cream cone and Padron along the river. Now there is something very loud going on in the plaza in front of the cathedral. It is some kind of skit about the Camino. I may have to go check it out. 

Meanwhile, here is a picture from my hotel window.