Leaving Leon, A Morning of Selfies

Last night I met a man from England at dinner. He's done the first part of the Frances before with friends. They planned to do it in stages over four years. But his friends didn't come last year, so he walked one stage himself. This year he started in Leon, and will be meeting his friends in Ponferrado.

He was going to take a bus for the first part of today's walk, because it is just city streets, getting out of Leon. In fact that was 8 of the 21 kilometers today. And since Leon ran into La Virgen del Camino, the streets were half the walk. He said I was probably one of those who thought buses made it not authentic or real. I said I didn't think any such thing. I like buses. If I was inclined to take one at some point I would, but I'd probably be afraid I would miss something. I told him about the time I was walking out of Leon and a Spanish woman who was carrying her groceries one started walking with me. We talked until we reached her house and she invited me in to have tea and something to eat. If I had taken the bus I would have missed that. He didn't look convinced. lol

I didn't get a picture of me in front of the Leon sign yesterday, because there were a bunch of people jockeying to take a picture. But this morning before daylight, I was trying to take a selfie with some part of the sign, when a woman came by on her way to work. I asked her to take the picture and she did!

Then I ran into this bloke hanging out in a plaza

Later as I was crossing in front of the Parador, on the way to the bridge to cross the river, This guy called me over. 

I wasn't quite done. I spotted a great shadow selfie shot. 

On the way out of Leon I passed the hobbit houses, better known as Bodegas

On the way out of Virgen del Camino there is a church with this great facade

And a sculpture at the door

I finally found the route to Villa Mazarife. I was so excited. The first time I did the Camino, I didn't know any better, so I just went to Villadangos. It is a grueling walk along the highway with no redeeming features I can remember and, ends after what seems like an eternity, in Villadangos. The name should give you a clue. It is a dreary town. 

So the next year I did this route I tried to go to Villar Maxarife, because it was reputed to have more field walking and less highway, But, I got hopelessly lost, and ended up in Villadangos again. It seems someone, I'm presuming some person from Villadangos, was messing with the signs, pilgrims would end up in Villadangos, whether they wanted to or not. 

So I researched, made a study, read posts and talked to people who had actually been able to find Villar Mazerife. And, since my last visit nice official signs have been posted for both alternatives. So I found my way to Vilkar Mazerife, which does in fact have a lot less highway walking. 

When I reached Villar Mazarife I encountered this lovely sign that is made as a Mosaic from tiny stones. 

So I found an Albergue, had my shower, and was doing my laundry when the guy from England walked up. I was a little surprised, because he had said he was going to Villadangos. That route is shorter by about 5 kilometers. Maybe my reference to the walk there as "soul sucking" and the town as the "armpit of the world," influenced his decision. 

So I am laying in my room, which has two bunk beds, so it sleeps four. I was in here alone most of the day. Suddenly four women come in creating quite a ruckus. This isn't hard to do in a small room with back packs. Then I hear and see one of the women spraying her sleep sack with something. In a closed room. My respiratory system was not pleased. I looked at her startled. She looked at me innocently and said, "It's lavender." Like that makes it ok. I avoid perfume counters at the mall, as well as Whole Foods or Mothers Market. So, coughing, I opened the window and hung my head out. 

We eventually got around to introductions. They are French Canadians. They repeated the French part several times as though in fear I would think they were from British Columbia. Seeing as how they speak French, I don't think there was much danger of that. 

This is their first day ever on the Camino. They are like newborns. They don't understand the Spanish eating formula. The youngest one asked me how do you say lunch in Spanish. I told her technically the word is "almuerzo," but that the Spanish don't eat lunch. The eat a light breakfast or desayuno in the morning, a big meal we would call dinner at sometime between 1:30 and 4, and it usually lasts two hours. Then they eat in the evening sometime between 7:30 and midnight, depending on what part of Spain you are in at the time. And this is sometimes a full meal, but in many places it is something  light. But along the Camino meals are served usually between 1:30 and 3:30 then again between 7:30 and 9:30, or at some places from noon until 9 pm. They looked dazed. I told them not to worry, they would get the hang of it. I don't think anyone has died of starvation on the Camino. And there's always Risquettos. 

I'm feeling so much better. I ate dinner last night and again tonight. Yummy. Tonight I had ensalada mixta and meatballs, with ice cream for dessert. 

Time for sleep now. 

And We Are Off to the Big City, Leon

Slept well last night after all the singing, dancing and laughter. I got up and got ready with a heavy heart. Both Nadia and her Mom, Satsa and Alejandro and his dad, Michalante are stopping in Leon and going home. I got a picture of Alejandro and Michalante while we were packing up. We all slept in the same room last night. 

Then they left and one of the four Spanish girls took a picture of Satsa, Nadia and I. 

As I write this there are tears forming. I think it's odd that I can get that attached to people I've known for a week. But, it happens. Satsa and I exchanged emails and phone numbers. 

Then we started walking. It was dark and the path was off road, but I knew Alejandro and his dad were in front of me and Nadia, her mom and the four Spanish girls were behind me. It was another beautiful sunrise, even though we were walking along a highway. 

The sky was filled with dark clouds, so it added some drama to the sunrise 

Shortly after sunrise it started sprinkling. It wasn't enough to take the pack off and prepare for rain. It stopped after about thirty minutes. Then we saw a faint rainbow. 

About an hour later the thunder and lightening started. That stuff is unnerving enough, but when you are out on a path in the middle of an open field it is just a tad scary. Then it started raining seriously. Just about the time I got the rain gear on and I was a little soaked, it quit. No more rain, thunder or lightening until 7:30 this evening, but I was tucked into the Albergue at that time, and it was of short duration. 

Here is the river we crossed and the sky after the storm. 

I walked with Satsa some today while Nadia walked with the four Spanish girls. We saw a lot of snails because of the rain. We moved some of them off the trail. Then later I saw two slugs. I didn't move them. They were busy being sluggish. 

I caught my first sight of Leon and then got another view after climbing the big blue ramp over the highway. 

After I got to the Albergue and took my shower, Satsa and Nadia showed up. They took a shower at the Albergue. They walked all day and they were going to have a long bus ride home. After they showered, we went and got tapas.  Then we said good by and they walked out of my Camino with packs on their backs. 

Later, I took a walk to look at the walls that protected Leon back in the day of knights and swords. They would not be much help agains t drones. 

And then I went over to check out the stained glass in the cathedral. It was a major engineering feat to build a gothic cathedral with the amount of stained glass in the walls of the Leon Cathedral. I believe it is still the only one with that much stained glass. 

After my walk, I had dinner at the Albergue. I skipped the Mass and Pilgrims Blessing. I got a Pilgrim's Blessing in Carrion. After dinner I crawled into bed for a good night's rest. 

Camino Magic

When I left El Burgo Ranero it was still dark, but three guys From Brazil were leaving at the same time. I sort of tagged along with them until first light.

I didn't get much sleep last night between a couple of drunk pilgrims who wanted to "sleep" outside, the townspeople who had a loud conversation across the street until midnight, the thunder and lightening show through our open window, and the cold air through the open window; sleep was elusive. 

But the sunrise, as usual was stunning. 

It's been hot, hot, hot; except for the wind and tormento last night. I have been sick with some sort of stomach/intestinal bug since my second day on the Portuguese Camino, which would have been about the second or third of July, so for about six weeks. I had a café con leche at a place like someone's living room turned into a cafe. Even as I drank the café a warning flashed in my head. But I ignored it. It's a bummer, because I love Spanish food and haven't felt much like eating. 

I have some antibiotics with me, but the downside to using them is that they can cause problems with you tendons and muscles. They recommend that you don't engage in strenuous exercise for three months after you take them. So, I have been hoping that the situation would correct itself. But it has just gotten worse. 

So today when I got to Mansilla de los Mulas, I took the first antibiotic. Hopefully all will go smoothly. Walking at a relaxed pace isn't strenuous exercise, is it? We'll see. If I start having muscle or tendon problems, I may need to change plans. 

The Albergue in Mansilla is one I really like   The hospitalera who has been there for years is spectacular. This atmosphere was augmented by the Italian Invasion. A group of about thirty Italians loosely banded together on the Camino managed to fix a gourmet dinner of a fancy salad, carbonara, bread and lots of wine. The small kitchen was a flurry of activity. The patio was transformed into a dining room with places set for everyone. 

In the midst of all this the hospitalera came out with a stool like shoe salesmen use, towels and a medical kit. She started treating blisters. One of the kids asked her if she was a doctor. She said, No I'm a veterinarian. I work on animals." This drew round of laughter. 

I had eaten during the preparation. Nadia was hanging out with the four Spanish young women, so Satsa and I went for a walk. We ended up on a bridge watching the sunset and two men fishing in the river. 

We talked about iPhones, photography, life and philosophy. She is married to a man from Morocco, has a nine year old daughter and lives in Bilbao. I'm married to the love of my life, my youngest grand child is 10 and I live in California. And yet, this woman and I share a lot of the same life philosophies and interests. 

By the time we got back to the Albergue all evidence of the dinner had been cleaned up spic and span. Everyone was sitting around the patio. There was a guitar being passed around and songs being sung. The hospitalera moved the lights out to 11pm. We sat and watched people dance and listened to the music.

The ambiance was pure Camino

Pilgrims Reappear In El Burgo Ranero.

I woke this morning at 5:30am. It was not a completely restful night. The man in the next cubby of beds was snoring loudly about half the night. Then he settled into a quiet snore. But it was time to go and not to worry about lost sleep. I got dressed, packed my bag, and headed out about 6:45am. There was a beautiful sunrise this morning. 

There was lots of other lovely things to se on the way to Berciano, but the sun was so strong they turned into shadow pictures. 

It's hard to believe, but not one café was open to catch the lif rim breakfast trade. So I walked about 6 miles to Bercianos and had breakfast there about 9am. I bet you can't guess what I had for breakfast. If you guessed tostada with café con leche, you win the prize. 

I have a lot of fond memories of Bercianos from 2013 when I was a hospitalera there. It is a really nice village. It's also where I learned about sweeping and cleaning the sidewalk in front of your house. 

Jennifer walked up while I was eating and so we sat and chatted while she drank her coffee and I ate. She's a vegetarian who does like to eat a lot of carbs (i.e., bread) and doesn't sugar. That makes Spain very challenging. 

There were also some amazing sights walking from Bercianos to El Burgo Ranero

I finished the walk to El Burgo Ranero and was surprised that I was the first to arrive at the Municipal Albergue. I was one of the last to leave the Albergue in Sahagun. I think the faster people went on further. Sahagun to El Burgo Ranero is only 18 km or abou 10 miles. Just too short for some folks. But I'm in no hurry. I'm enjoying my walking and the people I'm meeting. I'm not even sure I will walk to Santiago. I need to go there at some point to pick up my package. 

Barcelona is calling. It's voice it getting stronger. So at some point I may hop a train to Barcelona, or some place else. Or I may hop a train to Santiago and walk to Finisterre or Muxia. This really is following the title of the blog, "Wandering In No Particular Direction. "

While I was sitting having a Coca Cola Zero and waiting, waiting for the Albergue to open, who walks up but the man and the boy who was injured walking into Boadilla. I was so excited to see them. The boy's name is Alejandro and the man is his dad. Apparently, they went to Fromista and rested a day or two and Alejandro was able to continue walking. I really was thrilled. I introduced them to Nadia and her mom. Alejandro and his dad are finishing this year's Camino in Leon. They will do Leon to Santiago next year. Nadia and her mom will be leaving in Leon also. 

A Long Hot Walk to Sáhagun

Last night Latsha and I both were thinking we were going to try to walk to Sahagun today, but if it got too hot we'd probably stop somewhere closer. When I got to Sahagun it was 98 degrees and there was no shade anywhere along the trail today. It's 8pm and it is still 91 degrees. Fortunately, it isn't supposed to be that hot tomorrow. As I ran into people staying at the various albergues, I asked them if they had seen Nadia and her mother. Nobody has, so maybe they stopped earlier. 

Here's a picture of the birds I met in Calzadilla.

And here is a little fellow who was on the window by my bed last night. He was less disturbing than the bee that was there earlier. A nice Spanish man and his wife were on the bed next to me. He rescued me from the bee. 

This morning in the Albergue was the usual annoying symphony of alarms, rustling bags, conversations in other than hushed wispers, and this morning, someone was having a telephone conversation sitting on her bed amongst sleeping people. It really is amazing. I get up early anyway, so I don't care. 

I packed up, ate breakfast, and left before first light. I don't have a head lamp, but the moon was pretty bright

After I had walked for a while I started getting one of my ocular migraines. They make me feel like I'm loaded and I hate it. So, I had to take my medicine and sit for a while on the trail until it passed. 

Apparently I was one of the last to leave Calzadilla because only a few people came by while I was resting and waiting for the medication to take effect. 

Two guys came by asking me to be on the look out because one of them couldn't find their boots this morning. They told me the brand name and the type of boot. Boots go missing occasionally on the Camino because everyone has to put their boots on a rack before going into the dormitories where the beds are.  This is so we don't track the dust and muck from the trail into the sleeping quarters. Sometimes in the morning darkness someone picks up the wrong pair. They all look a lot alike. I tie a bright ribbon through mine, so no one will take them by mistake. I suppose sometimes someone might steal them, but I can't figure out why, unless they got a hole in their own.

I have to confess to you that I did not spend the rest of the day looking at people's boots as I walked. Gracious, that would really cause lostedness. 

So, the trail between Calzadilla and Sahagun is pretty much a straight line, but that is only a minor challenge for the "Queen of Lost." Really, I don't know how this keeps happening to me, but I got lost. I had to back track to the penultimate fork in the road. That was lawyer speak for the next to the last fork in the road. Aren't you impressed? Maybe I could throw in a couple of "herein before referenced" clauses. lol

I stopped by and said "hi" to my friends Rebekah and Paddy in Moratinos on my way to Sahagun. Saw Oliver there too. Leea and I met Oliver last year at San Anton. 

Here's a couple of pictures from outside Moratinos:

This one is a shadow of me and a tree on the landscape. I really didn't intend that to happen, but when I saw it, I thought it was kind of funny. 

When I was walking around Sahagun today I saw a sporting goods store. I thought of the guy who lost his boots and hoped he found it. I ran into him later in the kitchen at the Albergue, having dinner with his German friends. He said, "Look I have new boots." So he had found the store. 

As I was walking around Sahagun, I also ran into the Australian woman who had been talking on her phone on the trail, the day I tripped over my own pole. We went and chatted about the Camino, life, and the weather. She was saying when it is this hot in Australia, people stay indoors, or sit outside under a tree. They don't walk in it. She says this is madness. I said, when it's this hot at home I go hiking or walking. She said I probably tolerate the heat because I'm just a string and don't have ounce of fat. I was shocked. I told her I always think I'm fat. "O wad gie the gifty gie us to see ourselves as others see us."

She is what she calls a book lawyer, meaning she never practiced law, she teaches. Her subject is "Aboriginsls and the Law." I thought that was very interesting and we discussed the Aboriginsls in the US, namely the Native Americans. 

After all this excitement, I went to the store and got provisions for dinner. I met these two guys on the way:

I had green Spanish olives (so much yummier than olives in the states,) bread, cheese, chips and tuna. It was good. And now I'm going to have cookies and a Chupa Chup for dessert. 

Night all. 

On To Calzadilla de la Cueza

Last night in Carrion was a gas. You have to give the Spanish credit for being able to manufacture a parade and a festa with ingenuity and a sense of humor. They had what was probably the high school band playing as groups of town people dressed as eggs, grapes, bananas, ballerinas, Cola Cao (a very popular poster to make hot or cold chocolate,) stick figures, cowboys, and, yes, pilgrims. They also had floats. One was Don Quiote tilting at windmills. Many of the participants were enjoying beer and mixed drinks as they strolled down the street. It was a hoot. And about as disorganized as a parade can be. Here, take a look:

The festa was for San Xulian. The calendars showed this town has festa days in every month. 

The 17.5 km (11mi) trek between Carrion and Calzailla is not easy. The reason for this is that there is no shade and no place to stop , get out of the sun, and have a cold drink or a snack. Those little breaks while walking are very refreshing. 

I knew it would be like this so I was mentally prepared. I got up brushed my teeth, combed my hair, packed up my pack, ate two little cartons of yogurt, and some bread the Korean family left. By the way this family is amazing there are about six or seven of them and, according to what they said during the introduction part of the singing, they all came to do the Camino to spend time with their family. When the sisters suggested they sing a Korean song, they did and it sounded amazing. This morning when I went into the kitchen they had the bread all cut up, some bananas, bacon and fried eggs. I was stunned. I don't think I've ever seen a pilgrim make bacon and eggs on the Camino. 

Anyway, they had some left over bread and I asked them if I could have it. Score. 

I left the Albergue just before 7am. I couldn't remember how to get out of the town, but I was following the arrows.At one point I was stopped by the side of the road because I couldn't figure out which way the arrows were pointing. Sure enough , a guy in a car stops and tells me the Camino is straight ahead, then turn left at the bridge. And away I went. 

As I was walking I came upon Nadia and her mother. 

Nsdia is the one with my shadow on her. This kid walked the 17 km, then played in the pool all day after they arrived at the Albergue. I think her mom finally got her out about 7pm. The energy of kids!

Here's my shadow picture for the day

As I was walking I saw this woman talking on her cell phone while walking. It was not a short conversation. 

Then at the Albergue there was a guy carrying on a conversation on his cell phone while hanging out his laundry. I marvel at their ability to multitask. Today I was just walking, not doing anything else and I managed to trip over my own walking pole, which theoretically I control, making two small cuts on both legs. I don't think I should ever try walking and chewing gum at the same time. 

Here's my little snail fried I met today

He was trying to cross the road. I was trying to convince him that this was not a good idea, that there was plenty of grass on this side of the road, and he might get squished by a foot or a tire.about this time Nadia and her mother walked up and we all admired the beauty of this snail's shell. Nadia's mom picked him up a carried home to the other side. What a kind act. 

So, I show up in Calzadilla and check into the Municipal Albergue. The lady wh checked me in stamped my credential took down all the necessary information from my passport. Is he shows me around, where the kitchen is, where the bathrooms and showers are, all that stuff. There are two rooms with beds and she says I can choose any bed I want. 

She leaves I go down to the bar and  get a coke and relax. When I go back to the Albergue another Oman is there looking at me like I'm trying to sneak in. She says I need to register. I tell her I already did. So she says she wants to see my passport. So I say ok. I run up and get my passport and take it down. She checks every detail that has already been written, then tells me I need to pay the 5€. I told I thought I already did. So I said ok. After walking I probably not fully functioning. 

I go up to take my shower so I can get my laundry together for washing. I figure I'll take her the money when I go down to do the laundry. 

I go to the showers closet to my room and one doesn't have a shower head and the other has muddy water and hair on thefloor. Not really a deal killer but I thought I'd check out the other two showers. At this point she is coming up the stairs to show two new pilgrims their beds. She starts yelling at me that I can't those showers. They are for the people in this room. So I tell her the problems with the other showers and she goes over and looks at them. She says the shower isn't dirty, it's just been used by the Koreans, who by the way are staying in the other room, so by her reasoning should not have used these showers designated for my room. 

Then she starts saying this is an Albergue, not a hotel. That she can show me where there is a hotel. Then she says I'm not a pilgrim and starts lecturing. I am baffled. I've done a lot of Caminos and never had a problem in any Albergue. But at this point I figure retreat is the best option. So I stuff everything in my pack and leave. 

I go like three feet next door to the other Albergue that has a swimming pool. The hospitalero there recognizes my Muñeca and kids me saying that Voluntarios and hospitaleros have to sleep on the top bunk. After what I just went though I was stunned for a moment and then he laughed and showed me his Muñeca. We got along famously, I'm glad to say. 

So I got the opportunity to practice compassion again today. And Nadia and her mom are staying here, so I got to spend part of the day watching Nadia swim like a little fish. 

I had dinner with them and Lasatya and I had a wonderful talk about all things spiritual. We watched a sunset that turned the horizon purple and pink.

Now I'm tucked in and it is time to sleep.