Camino Magic

When I left El Burgo Ranero it was still dark, but three guys From Brazil were leaving at the same time. I sort of tagged along with them until first light.

I didn't get much sleep last night between a couple of drunk pilgrims who wanted to "sleep" outside, the townspeople who had a loud conversation across the street until midnight, the thunder and lightening show through our open window, and the cold air through the open window; sleep was elusive. 

But the sunrise, as usual was stunning. 

It's been hot, hot, hot; except for the wind and tormento last night. I have been sick with some sort of stomach/intestinal bug since my second day on the Portuguese Camino, which would have been about the second or third of July, so for about six weeks. I had a café con leche at a place like someone's living room turned into a cafe. Even as I drank the café a warning flashed in my head. But I ignored it. It's a bummer, because I love Spanish food and haven't felt much like eating. 

I have some antibiotics with me, but the downside to using them is that they can cause problems with you tendons and muscles. They recommend that you don't engage in strenuous exercise for three months after you take them. So, I have been hoping that the situation would correct itself. But it has just gotten worse. 

So today when I got to Mansilla de los Mulas, I took the first antibiotic. Hopefully all will go smoothly. Walking at a relaxed pace isn't strenuous exercise, is it? We'll see. If I start having muscle or tendon problems, I may need to change plans. 

The Albergue in Mansilla is one I really like   The hospitalera who has been there for years is spectacular. This atmosphere was augmented by the Italian Invasion. A group of about thirty Italians loosely banded together on the Camino managed to fix a gourmet dinner of a fancy salad, carbonara, bread and lots of wine. The small kitchen was a flurry of activity. The patio was transformed into a dining room with places set for everyone. 

In the midst of all this the hospitalera came out with a stool like shoe salesmen use, towels and a medical kit. She started treating blisters. One of the kids asked her if she was a doctor. She said, No I'm a veterinarian. I work on animals." This drew round of laughter. 

I had eaten during the preparation. Nadia was hanging out with the four Spanish young women, so Satsa and I went for a walk. We ended up on a bridge watching the sunset and two men fishing in the river. 

We talked about iPhones, photography, life and philosophy. She is married to a man from Morocco, has a nine year old daughter and lives in Bilbao. I'm married to the love of my life, my youngest grand child is 10 and I live in California. And yet, this woman and I share a lot of the same life philosophies and interests. 

By the time we got back to the Albergue all evidence of the dinner had been cleaned up spic and span. Everyone was sitting around the patio. There was a guitar being passed around and songs being sung. The hospitalera moved the lights out to 11pm. We sat and watched people dance and listened to the music.

The ambiance was pure Camino