Last night I met a man from England at dinner. He's done the first part of the Frances before with friends. They planned to do it in stages over four years. But his friends didn't come last year, so he walked one stage himself. This year he started in Leon, and will be meeting his friends in Ponferrado.
He was going to take a bus for the first part of today's walk, because it is just city streets, getting out of Leon. In fact that was 8 of the 21 kilometers today. And since Leon ran into La Virgen del Camino, the streets were half the walk. He said I was probably one of those who thought buses made it not authentic or real. I said I didn't think any such thing. I like buses. If I was inclined to take one at some point I would, but I'd probably be afraid I would miss something. I told him about the time I was walking out of Leon and a Spanish woman who was carrying her groceries one started walking with me. We talked until we reached her house and she invited me in to have tea and something to eat. If I had taken the bus I would have missed that. He didn't look convinced. lol
I didn't get a picture of me in front of the Leon sign yesterday, because there were a bunch of people jockeying to take a picture. But this morning before daylight, I was trying to take a selfie with some part of the sign, when a woman came by on her way to work. I asked her to take the picture and she did!
Then I ran into this bloke hanging out in a plaza
Later as I was crossing in front of the Parador, on the way to the bridge to cross the river, This guy called me over.
I wasn't quite done. I spotted a great shadow selfie shot.
On the way out of Leon I passed the hobbit houses, better known as Bodegas
On the way out of Virgen del Camino there is a church with this great facade
And a sculpture at the door
I finally found the route to Villa Mazarife. I was so excited. The first time I did the Camino, I didn't know any better, so I just went to Villadangos. It is a grueling walk along the highway with no redeeming features I can remember and, ends after what seems like an eternity, in Villadangos. The name should give you a clue. It is a dreary town.
So the next year I did this route I tried to go to Villar Maxarife, because it was reputed to have more field walking and less highway, But, I got hopelessly lost, and ended up in Villadangos again. It seems someone, I'm presuming some person from Villadangos, was messing with the signs, pilgrims would end up in Villadangos, whether they wanted to or not.
So I researched, made a study, read posts and talked to people who had actually been able to find Villar Mazerife. And, since my last visit nice official signs have been posted for both alternatives. So I found my way to Vilkar Mazerife, which does in fact have a lot less highway walking.
When I reached Villar Mazarife I encountered this lovely sign that is made as a Mosaic from tiny stones.
So I found an Albergue, had my shower, and was doing my laundry when the guy from England walked up. I was a little surprised, because he had said he was going to Villadangos. That route is shorter by about 5 kilometers. Maybe my reference to the walk there as "soul sucking" and the town as the "armpit of the world," influenced his decision.
So I am laying in my room, which has two bunk beds, so it sleeps four. I was in here alone most of the day. Suddenly four women come in creating quite a ruckus. This isn't hard to do in a small room with back packs. Then I hear and see one of the women spraying her sleep sack with something. In a closed room. My respiratory system was not pleased. I looked at her startled. She looked at me innocently and said, "It's lavender." Like that makes it ok. I avoid perfume counters at the mall, as well as Whole Foods or Mothers Market. So, coughing, I opened the window and hung my head out.
We eventually got around to introductions. They are French Canadians. They repeated the French part several times as though in fear I would think they were from British Columbia. Seeing as how they speak French, I don't think there was much danger of that.
This is their first day ever on the Camino. They are like newborns. They don't understand the Spanish eating formula. The youngest one asked me how do you say lunch in Spanish. I told her technically the word is "almuerzo," but that the Spanish don't eat lunch. The eat a light breakfast or desayuno in the morning, a big meal we would call dinner at sometime between 1:30 and 4, and it usually lasts two hours. Then they eat in the evening sometime between 7:30 and midnight, depending on what part of Spain you are in at the time. And this is sometimes a full meal, but in many places it is something light. But along the Camino meals are served usually between 1:30 and 3:30 then again between 7:30 and 9:30, or at some places from noon until 9 pm. They looked dazed. I told them not to worry, they would get the hang of it. I don't think anyone has died of starvation on the Camino. And there's always Risquettos.
I'm feeling so much better. I ate dinner last night and again tonight. Yummy. Tonight I had ensalada mixta and meatballs, with ice cream for dessert.
Time for sleep now.













Excellent! I like meatballs and ice cream for dessert. Hmmmm. Bus or no bus for transit of larger cities. You make a good case for either one. Choices! Your kindness to Camino Virgins will not go unnoticed by Karma.
ReplyDeleteMaybe there should be a comma in there for clarity.. But meatballs for dessert works for me.
DeleteThat was so nice to read. Just like hearing you chat.
ReplyDeleteThanks. I enjoy writing them.
Deleteha ha ha.. chuckling about the comma comment!! Anyway - I like meatballs but not for dessert, and I love ice cream .. and that COULD be for the main meal! Love the selfies.. you are so much better than I am ..I usually either capture my thumb across the picture .. or look like I am trying to solve a mathematical equation - without a calculator! ha ha And the Villadangos .. ha ha - that made me laugh out loud. But as mentioned before .. kindness to the newbies... (though probably smirking on the inside) will definitely either wipe out something from the 60's or move you up the ladder to heaven! :) Lovely to hear from you. Hope your tummy is behaving.
ReplyDelete