Sweeping Up Rocks

Yesterday Bea and I went to the Guardía Civil to deliver copies of the registration papers. It's about a kilometer each way and we need to do it every other day. Instead of returning directly to the Albergue, Bea and I decided to walk along the river. From the Guardía Civil, the first part of the walk is along a channel or fluvial. This leads you to the river, which is lovely. 

While walking we saw a field with two large cows and another field that backed up to a house that had a sheep with a black head and legs. 

Along this walk they also had a place for people to create compost for use in their gardens or fields. 

When we got to the roadway, we stopped at the carnitería to pick up some meat and for Bea to order some bread that is from this province. When they found out we were hospitaleros, they were all excited and told us the Albergue was great for business, for them and the whole town. They gave us a bunch of homemade chorizo for the Albergue. 

While walking I told Bea that one of the benefits of her being here is that Elidio has begun talking to me. He didn't know to slow his Spanish down, so I could catch it. I think hearing Bea and I exchange words and and using hand signals and other devices to help understand, he decided to try to communicate. It is much nicer now. 

We have had some very strange pilgrims. Yesterday, we had a woman come in with three dogs., and a man with one dog. The guy didn't want to sleep with his dog. He wanted to sleep in a tent and have his dog outside. Fortunately, they decided to move on. Today, we have two guys with a German Shepard. The dog does not look like he's enjoying the Camino. And the men don't look like they are walking one. Then tonight at 10 pm a woman arrives, supposedly from Oviedo. Not tired, not sweaty and no walking shoes.  My campañero has a soft heart, but I think word of this has spread around town. 

Yesterday, we had pilgrims that did not want to mix. They came in twos and threes and weren't interested in interaction. Today, it's about half and half. Two days ago, everyone was chatting it up and becoming friends. You just never know. 

This morning I noticed that the area in front of the Albergue was beginning to look a bit shabby. In the past, I have written about the Spanish women in the villages who sweep the sidewalk or street in front of their homes. I've even taken pictures of them. 

So this morning I decided to sweep the area in front of the Albergue. Mostly there was trash, cigarette butts and leaves. But as I was sweeping I realized that there were a lot of small rocks in the pile. I thought, "Oh great Nancy, you are sweeping up rocks." Maybe it's like a Zen Rick garden.  It does look a lot better though. Even the rocks are organized now. lol

Today I made ensalada mixta and ensalada de patatas with some stuff Bea was not going to use before she leaves tomorrow and things left by pilgrims. Both dishes are yummy and will last me for a day or two. 

We send a lot of people to this guy, Jesus, who has what you would call a pension or Casa rural. The beds are 10€, which is pretty good, and he will come to the Albergue in his car to pick them up. None of us knew anything about him, but we have people who come later in the day, who can't or don't want to walk four kilometers to the next Albergue. And usually when we are full, so is the next albergue. So, one night a piigrim wanted to try Jesus's place. He said he would email me the next day to give a report. He actually came by later that evening to say the place was fine. 

So, we've gotten to know Jesus. He has walked two Caminos, so he knows what it feels like at the end of the day. It's a relief for us to have some place the pilgrims can go when we are full. There is a Hotel/Bar with beds that we also tell people about, but the reviews are not great and they charge 15€. We tell pilgrims about both of them, but most people choose 10€ and a ride, over 15€ and a 850 meter walk. 

Today, Jesus's wife came by with a box of pastries for the pilgrims staying here. Bea says I have to walk the river twice tomorrow after eating two of the pastries. She is a kick. She leaves tomorrow morning and I am really going to miss her. 

Conversations Along The Way

Yesterday during Happy Hour I had an amazing conversation with a young Spanish medical student. She is worried about deciding which area of medicine or specialty she wants to pursue. Apparently, in Spain you have to make that decision when you finish your four years of medical school, before you actually have any experience. For her, that's two years from now. She hopes that somehow doing the Camino will help with that decision. We discussed how life is a hard thing to plan. Many things can happen which change the plan or direction. We discussed whether this is always a bad thing. We also discussed that maybe we weren't the controlling power or force. And we discussed the fact that nothing is forever. 

Bea and I are teaching each other our native language, just in the process of communicating. It is cool and amazing how much faster you can learn this way. 

Today we were on a hunt for a carritos, which is a shopping bag on wheels that the Spanish women use to transport their groceries. We went to the Chino first. Chino is a term for bargain stores run by Asians. They carry a wide variety of things from soap to car covers. Anyway, I love these stores. On my first Camino, I lost my expensive lulu lemon yoga pants. I found what I referred to as my Star Trek pants at a Chino in Puenta Reina for like five euro. I called them Star Trek pants because they had this silver lining that was supposed to keep you cool when you were hot and warm when you were cold. I bought them five years ago and I'm wearing them today. 

In fact, the next Spring I wanted to get another pair, so I checked the label and they were made by Columbia, a US sporting goods company. I bought my second pair from Columbia for $65. That's why I love Chino. I still like my first pair best, even though the material is getting a little thin, because there is a story that goes with them. I love a story. 

As Bea and I were leaving the Albergue to go shopping, she told me today was the fiesta of the shooting star. At least I think that is what she said. In Spain they have fiestas for any darn thing. These folks just like to party. So, we told Elidio, "hasta luego," then it was hasta las doce, then hasta diez, then we decided, since I have a key to the Albergue, it could hasta whenever. We were laughing at the idea of us out partying while Elidio took care of the pilgrims. Maybe you had to be there. We chuckled all the way down the hill. 

Anyway Bea and I went to Chino and found several things we needed, including this carritos:

If you look closely, you will notice that the Owls on the carritos match the Owls on the tablecloths at the Albergue. It was perfect, and only 15€!

So now it was time to take it on a trial run to the supermercado. You need to remember, none of us have cars. So we have been lugging supplies and groceries through town and up a pretty steep hill in plastic grocery bags. 

We decided, on the way to the supermercado, that we were "mujeres oficiales del supermercado" or "official supermarket women." We were just like all the other women going to the market. Well, not exactly, I have purple hair and a tattoo and Bea is 33. Most the women her age are driving cars to the store. But in our minds we were just locals going to the store. 

On the way home with our carritos, we saw Elidio and he ask us to join him for café. I've not had any café con leche since I arrived in Grado, so it was a treat. We sat outside and drank café and watched people walk by. It was lovely. 

This evening at Happy Hour (La Hora de Feliz) I had a lovely conversation with a German couple. They walked from Irun on the Camino Norte and then joined the Primitivo at Oviedo. We discussed drunk pilgrims and the way pilgrims disturb the sleep of their fellow pilgrims. It was entertaining. These Happy Hours are a great way for the pilgrims to get to know each other and for us to get to know them. Today one of the pilgrims said we were the Albergue Hilton. lol

Elidio and I also took a picture when we caught Bea having a cat nap in a comfy chair. I was inside and he was outside the window. In my picture, you can see his hand holding his camera. 

We have someone in the tent again. Well it's time to go to sleep. The Fiesta of the Shooting Star, or whatever, will need to go on without me. 

Quiet Day

Yesterday was crazy busy. We had pilgrims everywhere; in a tent on the back porch, in the hospitalero room, and three in the park across the street. This morning was really hectic with all of the extra people eating breakfast and getting ready to go. We got our cleaning done and the three pilgrims from the park showed up. They had their own food, so they just used our table. 

Elidio left to go home to see his doctor. He has cancer. The first day I was here he went into Oviedo for four hours of chemo. I thought, "No way will he be able to do much after chemo." But he's been doing everything. I'd say he's in his forties. He is a really gentle soul, but stubborn. He's an excellent hospitalero and I've come to totally trust his judgment. He has great instincts on what to do and when to do it. He is very giving. He also smokes like a chimney. He loves living creatures of all kinds. He taught me how to feed bread to the sheep to get them to come around. He noticed there is a feeding place for stray cats near us and that some of the neighbors drop off food and fill a water container. He notices bugs on the wall and knows oodles about trees and plants. Here's a picture of Elidio and I under the albergue's clock that tells time, temperature, humidity, date and day. 

After Elidio left, Bea and I went to the market for supplies. Bea is a delight to work with. She speaks a little English and I speak a little Spanish. We are teaching each other. I'm really surprised how much my Spanish has improved this year. It's still rudimentary, but better rudimentary. lol. However, Bea said it really isn't very good. Sigh. 

Bea is probably in her thirties with a naturally happy and outgoing personality. We have had lots of laughs together. We get a lot done when we are working and she picks up on what needs to be done quickly. She's never been a hospitalera before, but she is a natural. She also enjoys feeding the sheep. She took this picture of me with the bread lady, whose basket was empty again today. Her bread must be really good, because she is always sold out. 

Here is a picture of Bea sitting in the kitchen window and a picture of the Albergue from the outside the Albergue this morning with happy pilgrims eating breakfast. 

This really is a lovely Albergue. If anyone is doing the Primitivo it would be a great place to stay. There's someone here today who is on the APOC fb page. So, we will see if he has anything to say about his stay here. 

Well, I spoke, or wrote too soon. Just after I wrote about how relatively quiet it was today, a pilgrim from France shows up at the door at 9:40 pm. It's getting dark, every Albergue and pension within 10 km is full. So, we pitch the tent on the porch. Then as we start pitching the tent one of the guys that was sitting on the back stoop drinking beer gets up and he is drunk. Bea and I have a giggle about how good he will feel walking tomorrow. Then we get the French guy settled and the doorbell rings and another pilgrim who is a little tipsy missed the 10pm deadline. Oh well, it's easier to just let him go up and go to sleep. He was only a few minutes late. 

A Wild Day At The Albergue Grado

The day started out very mellow. I got up at 5:30am and set up breakfast for the pilgrims. They ate, drank coffee or tea or Cola Cao (don't ask,) got themselves and their gear together, gave lots of hugs and kisses and sweet thank yous as they left. 

Then we cleaned. After that I went to the Guardía Civil to turn in our paper work. It is somewhat discomforting to learn that police are pretty much the same silly everywhere. The procedure is more important than the purpose. 

After that I had a big bowl of cornflakes. Here's what cornflakes look like through a micro lense. 

While I was eating my cornflakes, Elidio saw this fellow on our outside wall. 

A few days ago, he saw this fellow in the river:

Elidio went to eat and to meet our Hospialera in training at the bus. Then the pilgrims started showing up. By the time Elidio returned with the Hospitalera in training, Bea, we were almost full. Bea is a sweetie and is very helpful. 

We've had some very interesting pilgrims through. One is sketching. Here's teo sketches he did of our Albergue embellished with stamps by Elidio:

I talked with another guy for a while. He is from France and speaks several languages, including Engliish. This is very unusual for a French person. Normally the French only speak French. He says English is not a romantic language, that it was derived from Gernan. Who knew?

Anyway, there are so many interesting and lovely people in the world. Somehow they never appear in news reports, but they give me hope. Yesterday, a young Spanish man was talking to me about American politics, particularly Trump. I guess folks in other countries are as baffled as we are about how this could happen. lol

Well we are packed to the gills tonight, over capacity. We have been at capacity every night since I've been here and have had to turn away 10 to 20 a night. There are lots of people walking this Camino right now. 

Well, time to sleep. Good night.